Q:
One of the most commonly asked questions is, "How much do your services
cost?"
A: We cannot accurately answer this
until we visit your property for an evaluation then we will measure and
calculate the exact square footage of turf you have.
Q: Why do
I have weeds still visible when a service was performed a month ago?
A: The weeds you see are newly
germinated weeds since we have serviced the lawn. Weed seed is in the soil and
can remain viable for many years and can germinate at any time. Service calls
between regular scheduled visits may be required. This is available to you at no
charge within 45 days of your application.
Q: Will the rain adversely affect a service
you just provided to my lawn?
A: No. In fact, we encourage rain after a visit. Most of our products are water soluble and rain will only enhance the application.
Q: Why does my lawn need 6
applications of fertilizer per year? Are they all necessary?
A: Regular applications to your lawn's
needs are an important part of any lawn care program. Our program is designed to
provide your lawn with carefully balanced feedings at specific times during the
year to avoid a feast or famine situation. Proper timing of fertilizers and weed
control applications is crucial for a healthy lawn
Q: What do nitrogen,
phosphorous and potassium do for the lawn?
A: Nitrogen is the element most
responsible for deep green foliage and lush grass growth. Phosphorus encourages
a strong root system. Potassium contributes to sturdy plant growth and disease
resistance
Q: I hired a lawn care company
so why is my grass still browning out in the Summer time drought?
A: In the Summer time we apply a slow
release fertilizer, however, the grass may still go dormant due to lack of water
in an extreme drought. The slow release fertilizer will help maintain the plant
health and allow a quicker green up during optimum growing conditions or when
adequate moisture levels return. We recommend watering faithfully with a
sprinkler or installing a sprinkler system to maintain a year round green lawn.
If you decide to water, you need to water deeply and infrequently.
Q: Do you have a solution for
dog damage on my lawn?
A: Yes. Dog urine contains high levels
of nitrogen, which causes grass to become greener. Under certain conditions
(i.e. heat or drought stress) the nitrogen may actually burn the grass, causing
it to die and leave a bare spot in the lawn with a dark green circle around the
grass. This damage can usually be avoided by watering these areas thoroughly to
dilute the concentration of nitrogen in the area. If the areas are already dead,
then reseeding will be necessary. There is no home remedy available nor will
changing your dog's diet help.
Q: I have a shady, mossy area
in my lawn where grass does not seem to grow. I seed the area every fall, the
grass comes up fine, then dies the next summer and the moss comes back. What am
I doing wrong?
A: Several aerations over the next few
growing seasons may help along with reseeding with a grass seed that is better
suited to shade. Moss loves cool shady conditions and is not the cause of the
grass dying. Try to reduce the amount of shaded areas by thinning the tree
canopy to allow sunlight and air flow into these areas.
Q: Do I really need lime for
my lawn?
A: Yes, we highly recommend this.
Adding lime to a lawn helps adjust the soils ph levels, which affects the
grasses ability to absorb the nutrients necessary to grow properly. Liming is an
important part of a turf management program and is safe to use non-toxic to
humans or grass and will not cause pollution problems. We use pelletized lime
which has been in use for several years and while it is more expensive this
material is easier to spread and more controllable than regular liming materials
and eliminates dust problems.
Q: I have thatch build up in
my lawn, do I need to core aerate?
A: Yes, we recommend this service.
Thatch is a build up of undecomposed leaves, roots and grass stems. If thatch
builds up too much it can restrict water, fertilizer and air from penetrating
the soil. This can allow the turf to be more susceptible to insects and disease.
Core aeration is a lower impact to existing turf than de-thatching and will help
to minimize the amount of thatch and also lessen soil compaction.
Q: If I have moles in my yard
does this mean I have a grub problem?
A: No, it does not mean you have a
grub problem. A worm consists of 90% of a moles food source, leaving 5% to
insects and the other 5% to grubs. The mole will consume 80% to 100% of its body
weight in worms on a daily basis.
Q: How do I get rid of grubs
in my lawn?
A: To eliminate grubs in your lawn an
application of an insecticide is recommended from mid-June through July.
Treating the grubs at this time is very effective because the grubs are at the
highest point in the soil mid-June through July.
Q: When experiencing a
drought, what should I do?
A: Watch the weather and try to
monitor for a drought before it happens. Droughts usually happen in the summer
months. Prepare for this before it happens. Mow your lawn at 3 inches,
this will help the grass blades retain extra moisture and promote deep healthy
roots and will also aide in the retention of moisture in the soil. Fertilize
your lawn throughout the year on a regular basis to establish the turf so that
when this happens it will be thick and keep the weeds in control. A general rule
of thumb is to water the lawn 1 inch of water per week, whether this being rain
combined with a sprinkler or a sprinkler itself. Using a rain gauge will allow
you to accurately measure the amount of water. Water your lawn according to
local water restrictions. It is best to water early in the day so you don't have
to worry about waste water through evaporation. By watering in the morning this
allows the grass to dry thoroughly throughout the day and lowers the risk for a
possible fungus. Lightly sprinkling the grass will only develop shallow root
systems. Therefore, watering heavy and infrequent will drive the root system
down.
Q: Throughout the year how
often and how high should I mow my lawn?
A: Grasses may be
mowed as low as 1 ˝ inches (but not recommended) in Spring/Fall and up to 3
inches (strongly recommended) in the summer months. Please remember to make sure
no more than 1/3 of the grass blade is cut off each time you mow your lawn.
Mowing your lawn at a lower setting in the spring will help to stimulate new
growth and mowing your lawn short in the fall will help to prevent disease from
setting in over the winter. Please remember to keep the blades sharpened on your
mower at all times as this will cut the grass instead of tearing it. Mow in
different directions each time you mow to prevent "leaning" of the grass. Avoid
scalping at all costs.
A: Lawn fertilization is necessary to maintain color, density, and vigor. The healthier the lawn, the better it can withstand stress from heat, drought, and pets. A dark green lawn is often the homeowner’s goal, but the darkest green lawn is not always the healthiest. The most important goal is to achieve a healthy lawn that has moderate growth and good density.
Proper watering procedures help maintain lawn color, resilience and proper root development. A lawn should be watered regularly, before it has a chance to wilt and turn brown. To ensure proper watering procedures, follow these simple instructions: Be aware of early signs of wilt. Two common signs of wilt are grass leaves that have a bluish green cast caused by folded grass leaves or footprints that stay in the lawn instead of bouncing back up. Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of approximately six to eight inches. A soil probe may be used to check moisture depth in soil. To maintain a soil moisture depth of 6-8'' usually requires a rate of one to two inches of water per week. You can place opened cans in the sprinkler pattern, to determine the amount of water being applied. Water may be applied any time of day, but morning watering is usually most efficient. This is due to the higher humidity, negligible wind and wetness caused by dew, which usually accompanies this time of day. Night watering is not recommended as it encourages disease and insect development
Individual preference: A beautiful, dark green, dense lawn will require more fertilizer, and will also necessitate more mowing and irrigation
Weather: A rainy season will stimulate growth and will mean more fertilizer applications than a dry season. The same is true for an irrigated lawn versus a non-irrigated law
Age and quality of existing lawn: A new lawn will need more fertilizer for the first few years to enhance density. Improving a thin or undernourished lawn will also require more fertilizer for the first few years.
Clippings: Clippings should always be returned to the lawn. They will act as an additional fertilizer and will enrich the lawn further. (However, there are times where it is not practical to leave the clippings, in which case they can be removed.)